Just as I thought I was able to make sense of it, I am back with more confusion. I suppose it's better to start a new thread for this, since my first thread was truely answered.
Having established what seems to be the best mast, I did some tests with different Bands within minutes of each other.
The first two screenshots (1a.png and 1b.png) don't look so great, yet I get a reding of 71Mbps (2c.png). While the second and third screenshot (2a.png and 2b.png) give me a signal strength of 5 bars and my best RSRP reading so far of 81 dB, but a download speed of only 17Mbps.

           
           
I can't quite get my head around that.

From what I could tell from looking through every section in My3, there is no option to cancel a bill pay plan, at least not for Mobile Broadband. On the 6th May I called Three support to go through the cancellation process.  After going through the verification, reason, etc. the agent mentioned there is a 30 days notice period where I will be billed for a final month and my connection will automatically cease on the 30th day.  

Following the call, I checked My3 and there was no indication that my account was going to close, no e-mail, text, etc.  The only telltale sign that something was different was that the "Change Plan" button in My3 would display a "You cannot change your plan..." message.  

After my monthly billing interval passed mid May, Three issued a bill and My3 showed the next 30 days remaining interval, again like nothing changed.

Just before midnight on 3rd June, I logged into My3 and it still appeared like normal.  A few minutes after midnight, I noticed the LED started blinking on the Tenda node that was still connected to the 4G router.  I refreshed the page on My3 and the plan info page disappeared.  When I checked my 4G router's status page, it said "No Signal" and sure enough the LOG page recorded the SIM being booted off the network: 

   

When I log into Three now, the My3 section is gone (shows log-in problem screen below) and I just have the option to change my password, request Support or log out. 

For anyone leaving Three that may need past bills, be sure to download them before the 30 days notice is up.  After that, there is no option to view past bills and the "View my Bill" and "Pay my Bill" links just bring up the same sign-in error page saying to contact Support:

   

Hello!

Has anyone ever seen the value RI 4 in their Mikrotik Chateau 5G R16?

This value is supposed to indicate that the router has 4*4 mimo.

The modem must of course be loaded with speedtest or similar for RI 4 to be displayed, otherwise it will just idle and show RI 1.

   

Hi, first of all, thanks for providing this very useful site.

I have landed here, trying to figure out why our GOMO mobile internet connection fluctuates so much.
As usual, the more I read the more confused I get 

But I have made some progress. At this stage I have managed to find a sweet spot in the house (RSRP between -92dB and -95dB / RSRQ between -9dB AND -14dB / SNR between 5dB and 13dB), and stabilised download speeds (Mbps not less than the upper teens) by setting the modem (TP-Link Deco X50-5G) to 5G preferred and B20 (Meteor).
So all in all better than was.

These are just two screen shots from the deco app taken within seconds of each other:

       

What I haven't figured out yet is how I can determine what mast I am on. The mast I should be connected to is in plain view, 4km as the crow flies:

Site Viewer Site Details:
Site ID: EIR_CE_4172
Easting: 107850
Northing: 194500
Latitude: 52.99
Longitude: -9.37
Operator: Eircom
Services: GSM, LTE, NR, UMTS
Last update date: 17/01/2025

There is an other mast about 3km away, but I am only gessing the direction. It is not in plain site.

Hello!

I have tried to get mimo 4*4 from a tower but it is not working.
Is it maybe possible if I point one mimo antenna towards one tower and one mimo antenna towards another tower?
Both have the same configuration (n28, B3, B7, B8, B20, B28) and have about the same strength where I live.

//Jörgen

Hi, 

I've got a Chateau D53G-5HacD2HnD running via a Poynting XPOL-2-5G Antenna. It's on EE and I lock to a mast.

It's been great for ages, but in the last couple of days... not so great. I've done the obvious things: restart LTE interface, restart whole router, restart the wifi network (handled separately, Zyxel APs), with no success.

Symptoms: much of the time it's okay, and I can run a speed test and get 180Mbps down/50Mbps up. Latency at around 30ms.
But then sometimes it can't connect. So using websites becomes frustrating, as sometimes a basic page takes 30 seconds to load, etc.

Looking at graphs in the MT app, it seems that RSPR keeps dropping out. Presumably it's this that then makes SINR follow suit. And then it returns.

Is there anything at my end that might be causing this? Anything I can test? I plan to put a different SIM in later, on a different network, to see the difference. But my instincts are that it's an EE issue. I've tried their troubleshooting process - tests found no problems. 

Before I try speaking to someone, I'd like to be better versed in where the problem is. I fear I'll just get "what phone are you using? Reset network settings" etc., and if I say I'm using the kit above, I've a one in a thousand chance of speaking to someone who gets it.

Maybe the "wait and it'll get better" route will work, but it's getting very boring now we're into the third day...

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)
       

Unlike mobile 4G / 5G connections, there is not much to tweak on the physical Starlink hardware other than to make sure the dish is aligned, plumb and free of obstructions.  For alignment, the following internal web address shows the rotation and vertical alignment to a fraction of a degree:

http://192.168.100.1/

   

As it appears sensitive to vertical alignment, i.e. its tilt angle, this rules out placing it directly on most flat roof tops as these are generally slightly sloped for rainwater run-off. 


Improving the download speed

After using Starlink for a few days, download speeds are generally very fast, sometimes exceeding 40MB/s (=320Mbps), However, I have come across certain downloads mainly from distant servers that seemed unusually slow, like a few MB/s. 

From reading a detailed presentation on Starlink Protocol Performance, the variation in latency and micro-drops (=packet loss) plays havoc with the TCP congestion control algorithms that depend on packet loss as a congestion indicator.  Servers that use the BBR TCP congestion algorithm are unaffected by low to moderate packet loss, so can usually max out the connection.  As the user generally has no control over the server congestion algortihm, one workaround is to use a UDP based VPN that has its own congestion control that behaves like the BBR algortihm. 

Cloudflare WARP appears to be BBR based and has the advantage of being free and does not appear to have a usage cap.  With a quick test with the Leaseweb USA test server DAL-13, the following Ethernet graph shows the download throughput directly over my Starlink connection and repeated with the Cloudflare WARP app connected.  I have not tested the paid WARP+ plan.

       


Improving the upload speed

When uploading over Starlink there is a much higher chance of packet collisions such as with other Starlink terminals trying to transmit at the same time.  Sure enough, single thread upload speeds appear to be in the 5 to 20Mbps range.  However, unlike downloading, it is the local operating system TCP protocol that has control over the upload congestion algorithm.

Unfortunately, there does not appear to be any way of changing the congestion control algorithm in Windows 10, which is CTCP. Windows 11 which uses CUBIC by default can be configured for the newer BBR2 algorithm, however I found it to have no effect in various upload tests, at least with my testing in a Hyper-V virtual machine.  A guide link for anyone interested in trying BBR2 on Windows 11.  

The only way I found to get faster upload speed in Windows is with simultaneous uploads.  This is how the Ookla Speedtest operates, which is why if often gives upload speeds in the 30s despite individual file uploads not getting anywhere near this speed. 

In recent Linux builds, the built-in BBR congestion control works very well and from testing uploads, it can sustain 40Mbps to 50Mbps.  The following shows a 200MB upload block test result on TestMy, followed by a 50MB test run right after within Windows 10:



The following shows the Ethernet graph after completing the 200MB test upload on Linux Mint in Hyper-V.  The initial upload segment is from the TestMy pretest:

   

To enable BBR in Linux (requires root):

modprobe tcp_bbr
nano /etc/sysctl.conf

In Nano, add the following lines to the end of this file:

net.ipv4.tcp_congestion_control = bbr
net.core.default_qdisc = fq

Save the file (CTRL + O) and exit (CTRL + X).

Enter the following command:

sysctl -p

This should return:

net.ipv4.tcp_congestion_control = bbr
net.core.default_qdisc = fq

Finally, an Ookla Speedtest showing what the upload speed can get up to with the BBR congestion algorithm:



Even with that upload speed, the above upload / download latency figures indicate barely any hint of Bufferbloat.

I have a bird that is outside of our terrace door. It arrives in the morning and has spent nearly all day jumping onto the door handle and then trying to jump up. There is seemingly nothing that it is trying to get to. We put out bird seed and it was of no interest. Does anyone have and idea how I can help this bird?

Hello!
I am an amateur when it comes to mobile internet and have a problem with choosing an antenna for my 5g modem, I rented a small studio apartment where I have very poor coverage and it is surrounded by buildings (see the video in the link). I heard directional antennas are better but im affraid this buldings will block the signal. Should i choose omnidirectional? What antennas can you recommend for under 200 euros? Another question is this modification like in this youtube video neccesary to install one or its just better(I have the same modem and im ready to do it) Here is youtube video of modification-  Huawei 5G CPE Pro H112 370 Full External Antenna Modification - YouTube

Here is map of my area(purpule color is my provider antennas)-       https://drive.google.com/file/d/10t_VT_P...sp=sharing

Here is video  of roof i want to install it- https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Z47iW9M...sp=sharing

Thanks you for help !!

Hi everyone. I found this 5G router but I can't change the APN.
Basically if I enter the interface, I can add the APN but it always remains in "not connected" and I can't set it by default.
The Orange APN, if I insert the Orange sim, identifies it as the correct apn "orange" but then since the sim is deactivated it doesn't navigate
If I insert an Italian sim, instead of orange it says "EmptyAPN" which cannot be changed.
At the network level I connect to both 4G and 5G, so I don't think there is a sim block.
Any ideas? Is it possibile to flash it with a no brand firmware? Thanks

Attached Files

Thumbnail(s)